Similar to the previous type, this infill saves time, has average material consumption, plus it doesn’t accumulate material at crossings. This infill is formed by parallel lines drawn inside the model, which resemble the outside support structures. If you have another type of infill set in your profile and change the infill percentage to 100% density, PrusaSlicer will automatically change the infill type to rectilinear. This type of infill is the only one recommended for 100% infill printing. This way, it saves filament and doesn’t accumulate material at crossings (unlike grid). It creates a rectilinear grid by printing one layer in one direction, the next layer rotated by 90°, etc. Rectilinear is one of the basic infill patterns. For example, some infills may save us a lot of material and time, some can be filled with liquid, etc. Although you may feel they differ mostly in appearance, the opposite is true. The list of infills has grown a lot and it might be difficult to choose the right type. With different print settings, you can change not only the internal structure and mechanical properties but also print speed, material consumption and the object’s surface.īefore we start with advanced settings, let’s take a quick look at all available types of infills and their properties one by one. However, the same effect can be achieved by adding more perimeters as well (Print settings/Layers and perimeters). With density higher than 20% comes higher tenacity. Of course, for some objects, a 5% (or lower) infill might be enough, especially large simple parts printed with PLA. 10-20% is the ideal balance between strength, print reliability, print time, and material consumption. Our testing revealed that the best density setting is 10-20%, and we implemented this value in our PrusaSlicer profiles. Most of the time, it makes very little sense to set the infill density higher than 40 %. With proper infill settings, you can save a lot of material and time but also create some interesting patterns on the surface. It’s pretty much obvious that the best solution lies somewhere in between. If you decide to print a model without an infill, you’re risking that the surface of angled walls and top layers will be compromised – there might be small gaps or even large holes. Also, in most cases, solid models won’t provide better mechanical properties compared to models with a sparser infill. Solid models (100% infill) consume large amounts of filament and time. This helps keep the model solid and prevents gaps and holes from appearing on the object’s top surfaces. Infill provides internal support for top layers, which would otherwise have to bridge over empty space. Instead, we use a method that fills the inside of an object with a sparse supporting structure. If you are a 3D-printing pro, you may want to skip this chapter, but it never hurts to brush up on the basics, right?ģD printed models are rarely printed solid (100% infill) or completely hollow. Infill: inner structure of your 3D printsįirst, let’s do a quick recap of what an infill is and why it is important. Which infill should you choose? Is there a single universal pattern that works for every model? Or should you pick depending on a specific case? Let’s take a look at what can be accomplished by using the right kind of infill and adjusting its parameters. Now, with the sheer amount of options, you might even feel overwhelmed with all the possibilities. You may have noticed that there are new infill patterns in our new version of PrusaSlicer (2.3).
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